Posts Tagged ‘Beams’
Insulating your home is pure and simple the number one way to save money on energy costs. In the old days floors and walls were lined with just about anything to keep the moisture and cold air out of home. Renovations have revealed that even old newspapers were found packed into wall and floor boards.
Today insulating is a science all its own. There are R-factors assigned to different material and methods of insulating that give homes and buildings an appropriate amount of protection for their geographic region. The higher the R rating, the better insulated the home.
One of the top rated insulations is relatively new to the industry – probably no more than a couple of decades old – and that is blow in insulation.
The Benefits of Blow In Insulation
There are several benefits to blow in insulation over rolls of fibreglass insulation. The benefits include the method of installing it, its energy efficiency and where it can be used. Here are the top 5 reasons to consider using blow in insulation:
1. Blow in insulation is adjustable. Depending on how much material is used, it can create a protection with an R value of 15-38.
2. Only virgin materials are used to create most blow-in varieties of insulation. This means there a reduced chance of allergies.
3. Blowing the material into the crevices allows for a tighter fit and seal. It can be directed around corners, beams, or wiring that may already be in the walls.
4. Installing blow in insulation is fast. A barrier, referred to as a blanket is stapled to all of the 2×4s to keep the material from floating away and adhering where it isn’t wanted. Then a small slit is cut into the blanket. A hose is inserted and measured amounts of the insulation are blown into place.
5. This type of insulation is extremely energy efficient. As it is blown in it expands and adheres to the surrounding surfaces. It fills even the tiniest of cracks as it does this.
The Complete Installation Process
After attaching the blanket to the surrounding boards, the small opening cut into it allows the hose to be pointed in all directions around the wall or ceiling. After the material is in place the blanket’s slit is closed and taped. This blanket does not act as a moisture barrier, it just control the spray. The material itself resists moisture.
Drywall or other wall materials are then installed right over the insulation blanket. In a renovation project this means that an entire wall would not have to be removed in order to insulation. Take an extremely old home for example. There may be no insulation at all. Instead of removing layers of plaster wall, you could simply make a hole, position the hose and fill the walls will energy efficient insulation. Then patch the wall and the job is complete.
The blow in insulation is more expensive than traditional insulation. However, experts estimate that energy savings is so great that within 2 to 4 years those costs are recovered.
About the Author: Erica Bosworth is a publisher for the http://www.soundproofing-tips.com/ internetsite. In his publication the author is working on topics like blow in insulation and others.
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Allergies, Beams, Blow In Insulation, Cold Air, Cracks, Crevices, Decades, Energy Costs, Energy Efficiency, Home Renovations, Installing Insulation, Insulating Your Home, Insulations, Money, Old Newspapers, Science, Slit, Surfaces, Virgin Materials · No Comments »
Insulating your home is pure and simple the number one way to save money on energy costs. In the old days floors and walls were lined with just about anything to keep the moisture and cold air out of home. Renovations have revealed that even old newspapers were found packed into wall and floor boards.
Today insulating is a science all its own. There are R-factors assigned to different material and methods of insulating that give homes and buildings an appropriate amount of protection for their geographic region. The higher the R rating, the better insulated the home.
One of the top rated insulations is relatively new to the industry – probably no more than a couple of decades old – and that is blow in insulation.
The Benefits of Blow In Insulation
There are several benefits to blow in insulation over rolls of fibreglass insulation. The benefits include the method of installing it, its energy efficiency and where it can be used. Here are the top 5 reasons to consider using blow in insulation:
1. Blow in insulation is adjustable. Depending on how much material is used, it can create a protection with an R value of 15-38.
2. Only virgin materials are used to create most blow-in varieties of insulation. This means there a reduced chance of allergies.
3. Blowing the material into the crevices allows for a tighter fit and seal. It can be directed around corners, beams, or wiring that may already be in the walls.
4. Installing blow in insulation is fast. A barrier, referred to as a blanket is stapled to all of the 2×4s to keep the material from floating away and adhering where it isn’t wanted. Then a small slit is cut into the blanket. A hose is inserted and measured amounts of the insulation are blown into place.
5. This type of insulation is extremely energy efficient. As it is blown in it expands and adheres to the surrounding surfaces. It fills even the tiniest of cracks as it does this.
The Complete Installation Process
After attaching the blanket to the surrounding boards, the small opening cut into it allows the hose to be pointed in all directions around the wall or ceiling. After the material is in place the blanket’s slit is closed and taped. This blanket does not act as a moisture barrier, it just control the spray. The material itself resists moisture.
Drywall or other wall materials are then installed right over the insulation blanket. In a renovation project this means that an entire wall would not have to be removed in order to insulation. Take an extremely old home for example. There may be no insulation at all. Instead of removing layers of plaster wall, you could simply make a hole, position the hose and fill the walls will energy efficient insulation. Then patch the wall and the job is complete.
The blow in insulation is more expensive than traditional insulation. However, experts estimate that energy savings is so great that within 2 to 4 years those costs are recovered.
About the Author: Erica Bosworth is a publisher for the http://www.soundproofing-tips.com internetsite.
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Allergies, Beams, Blow In Insulation, Cold Air, Cracks, Crevices, Decades, Energy Costs, Energy Efficiency, Home Renovations, Installing Insulation, Insulating Your Home, Insulations, Money, Old Newspapers, Science, Slit, Surfaces, Virgin Materials · No Comments »
Like a curtain, the frame of the new wall goes into place not from the floor up, but from the ceiling down. Only in the last stage of assembly is it fastened to the floor.
In the simplest building methods, most of the frame is assembled flat on the floor. It is lifted as a unit over a beam called a sole plate that is nailed to the floor. Once upright, the wall frame is fastened into place by nails driven through a second beam, called a top plate, into the joists hidden above the ceiling. Finally, the bottom of the assembly is secured by nails driven through the sole plate.
For this final step, in which vertical beams called studs are nailed to the horizontal sole plate, you must master the knack of toenailing – that is, of fastening two pieces of lumber together at a right angle by driving a nail through them at an angle of about 45 degrees. Toenailing a stud into a plate is easy after some practice, but at first you may prefer to make a path for the toenails by drilling starter holes downward through the stud and into the plate, using a bit slightly smaller than the nail.
Ideally, the new wall should run either across the ceiling joists or under a single joist, to that the top plate can be nailed directly to a beam or beams above it. Ideally, too, the outermost stud of the new wall should lie directly against a stud in the existing wall, for easy stud-to-stud fastening. These ideal placements are not always practical. When you must run a wall between joists or end it between studs, you will have to install short lengths of wood as nailing blocks between the joists or studs to support it.
Sometimes age and traffic will have caused the ceiling or the floor joists to sag. In these cases, you may have to insert shims between the top plate and the ceiling or between the sole plate and the floor to make sure that a plate is level and firm before nailing it into place.
The other decisions you must make will affect the interior and the sheathing of the wall frame. One has to do with electrical outlets. You can install them easily in the open frame before the wallboard is installed and place them wherever you please. Usually, power for the new outlets can be taken from an existing outlet box in a nearby house circuit. Turn off the power to the circuit and make connections from the hot, neutral and ground wires in the existing box to the corresponding wires of a sheathed cable. Then run the cable through holes drilled through the new wall studs to new outlet boxes installed on the studs, secure the cable inside the boxes with clamps and strip the ends of the cable wires. Do not install new outlets back-to-back: this arrangement is common when new wiring is installed in walls because it reduces the need for wall patching, but back-to-back outlets can increase sound-carrying problems in a house.
About the Author: Michael Russell. Your Independent guide to Remodeling
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Beams, Ceiling Joists, Curtain, Fastening, Joist, Knack, Lumber, Nails, Partitions, Placements, Right Angle, Sheathing, Shims, Sole Plate, Stud, Studs, the portico restaurant job, Toenailing, Toenails, Two Pieces, Wall Frame · No Comments »
“Someone’s knockin’ on my kitchen door, leave the wood outside, what, all the girls here are freezing cold”.
- Cloud On My Tongue, Tori Amos.
PD have been very busy today! So busy in fact, that I have to split this post to fit it all in. *grinz* Firstly, a delivery of wood for the house frame. There’s loads of it!
All the different types of wood.
The four big beams for my portico sit atop more wood (future studs?).
Close up of the different thicknesses & lengths.
Wrapped in plastic. A peak inside finds more wood.
This wood has standards. ASNZS 4357 standard.
Delivery docket pg 1. All the technical details.
Delivery docket pg 2.
Delivery docket pg 3.
Delivery docket pg 4.
Delivery docket pg 5.
More black rubbery stuff! Can’t get enough…
Carter Holt Harvey seasoned wood to ASNZS 1748 standard.
Dirty foot prints all over my flat wood sheet!
POV from master bedroom of all the neatly delivered wood.
Bundled up & multi coloured wood.
The end of wood…
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Amp, Beams, Carter Holt Harvey, Cloud On My Tongue, Cold Cloud, Different Types Of Wood, Foot Prints, Girls, Master Bedroom, Pg 3, Portico, Pov, Sit, Studs, Technical Details, Thicknesses, Tori Amos, Wood Frame, Wood House · No Comments »
Drove back to Erneste Tile Concepts for another look at the Nero tile. I also decided to write the tile details down properly this time (stealthiness & illegibility = failed web searches). The lady who helped us this time was very helpful. She suggested matching the tile Gunmetal Grey grout colour, which blends in with the tile & doesn’t make it look obvious where the gaps are. Need to leave about 3mm gap between each tile for grout. Unfortunately, they only supply the tile in the one size 60cm x 30cm. She suggested I draw it up on a grid to give me an idea of how it would look before I make a decision. If I get the matching mortar, then it wouldn’t be such an issue with the size.
Daugres Ceramiche Nero tile example. This is the tile, but pretty bad picture of it! Doesn’t have the lines in the actual tile & texture more subtle.
Nero larger colour sample, without the lines. Better indication of the texture. Colour a bit lighter in real life.
Below are the other colours it comes it, as an example. Shows the brown tones running through the tile, which doesn’t show up on the Nero pictures above.
Next, visited the Tile Mart. Big range, but only a couple of choices. The 1st I didn’t like. The 2nd was nice – probably my 3rd choice overall. It was a darker tile than the rest, 305mm x 305mm, $39.90 per m2, RAK Ceramics Murano Series in Anthracite Rock colour, single fired, fully vitrified Gres Porcelanato. Couldn’t find this online, so no pix.
Below are a few tile grid examples. Does not take into consideration the estimated 10cm drop down around the edges of the portico.
Tile grid 30cm x 30cm. Would need to cut 2 tiles to fit (excludes cutting around portico beams). Offers more balance, but more grout required.
Tile grid 30cm x 60cm. Would only need to cut the one tile to fit (excludes cutting around portico beams). Less grout showing & required.
Tile grid 60cm x 30cm. Would need to cut 8 tiles to fit (excludes cutting around portico beams).
Example textured in Nero 30cm x 60 cm tiles. Current preference. Would need approx 32 tiles (includes top, sides & spare 3) = 5.76 m2 = $273.50.
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: 3mm, Amp, Anthracite, Beams, Blends, boycott morgan stanley, Brown Tones, Choices, Colours, daugres, daugres article, daugres ceramiche nero tile, daugres tiles london suppliers, Gap, Gaps, Grout Colour, Gunmetal, M2, Mortar, Murano, Porcelanato, Portico, PORTICO ENTRY GRID, portico tiles india, Rak Ceramics, RAK Murano Tiles, stockist of ceramic tiles made by daugres, Texture, Tile Mart, Tile Texture, Tiles, tiles expo 30cm x 60cm designs, Web Searches, wood Nero tiles · No Comments »
“Such a pretty house & such a pretty garden. No alarms & no surprises.”
- No Surprises, Radiohead.
I was happy to find the gardening faeries had been hard at work today whilst I was stuck at work. *grinz* More work down the southern side – breaking up the mortar chunks, leveling out the dirt lump down the back & carting a bit of left over sand to even out the ground near the laundry. Also a fair bit of work was done along the small section of my land on the northern side. And, to top it all off, a cute lil faerie pressie! But no action from PD on site.
Reflections of a porta loo, which strangely enough looks more attractive than the surrounding bricks.
Street scape reflections, framed by master bedroom windows.
Some of the bricks are backwards, some of them are forwards, most of them are horrible orange.
Note the brick top RHS cut around the bit of wood poking out.
The portico beams are getting a bit grotty & the slab a bit chipped.
Do you like my new sandpit? ;p
Continuing the clean up into my PD neighbour’s side.
Smoothed, but still scooped & sloped.
Mortar overflow broken down from rocks to pebbles.
Mortar blobs at the base of the slab knocked off & all smooth.
Temp fence pushed back to allow access down the northern side.
Dirt raked out a bit better than ZH’s bobcat left it.
Tidy up around the pipe.
Mortar chunks cleaned off under the study window.
Spasmodic level along here still, but raked & dechunked to look better.
Which is more than I can say about these bricks! Yuck!
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Alarms, Beams, Bedroom Windows, Blobs, Bobcat, Bricks, Chunks, Cute Lil, Faerie, Faeries, Forwards, Master Bedroom, Mortar, Overflow, Pebbles, Porta Loo, Portico, Pressie, Radiohead, Slab · No Comments »
“Rips open, leaves a hole. Follow the black moon in, follow the flashing gates. Alone at last, bury it inside. Come home…”
- Finished, Throwing Muses.
The painters were hard at work this morning on my way out shopping. When I dropped by later, loads of progress!
All the doors are back on, except 1 which I can’t figure out what it’s for, as I still think there’s a spare one? All the architraves & skirting boards have been painted Bone. The walls look like they’ve been given a coat of White Tone. The front door & portico beams have been painted in Dune. The outside infill panels are all painted – Jasper above the garage panel lift door, Dune above the front door & the rest in Paperbark. The ceiling in the garage as been done, complete with splatters over my panel lift door.
The painters backed into my driveway.
All painted up & ready to party!
Dune portico beams & supports.
Door rehung in the master bedroom.
Peaking at the paint work through the front awning window.
Wattyl empty buckets.
Render remains unpainted.
Ensuite walls have been painted, but these will be tiled most of the way up.
Close up of Paperbark painted infill panel above the ensuite window.
Zoomed out shot.
Paperbark painted infill panel above the laundry door.
Paperbark painted infill panel above the bathroom window. Note the bath is still out.
Laundry door back on, but manhole cover missing.
Paperbark painted DuraGal angle above bedroom 2’s window.
Bedroom 2’s entry & wardrobe doors back on.
Wide shot of bedroom 2’s painted DuraGal angle.
The back of the house is all painted up, under the future concrete & garden bed.
Family room / bedroom 2 wall painted. Let’s hope the leaks have been fixed properly.
Dining room wall, with streaming sunlight.
The White ceiling is only slightly lighter than the White Tone walls, which are slightly lighter than the Alabaster cabinets, which are slightly lighter than the Bone architraves – perfect!
Paperbark painted DuraGal angle above the family room window.
Looking better – the family room sliding door gets its infill panel painted Paperbark.
Dune down pipe & guttering, Brown Terrain bricks & Paperbark/Merino sliding door.
Paperbark painted DuraGal angle above the study window.
Jasper painted infill panel above the garage panel lift door.
Panel lift door wood supports painted Jasper down the inside of the garage pillars. Splatters on the panels.
Garage internal access door all shiny in White Tone & the ceiling painted White.
White Tone walls & Bone skirtings. These are not the same as the internal skirtings – higher & squared off, not rounded.
Door knob splattered & side light glass painted outside the lines.
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Alabaster, Awning Window, Bathroom Window, Beams, Black Moon, Dune, Empty Buckets, Infill Panels, Leaks, Master Bedroom, Open Leaves, Paint Work, Painters, Painting Doors, Portico, Ready To Party, Room Bedroom, Skirting Boards, Throwing Muses, Wardrobe Doors · No Comments »
It’s dark and there are only dim street lights to brighten up the path in front of you. You came across a person that was about to cross paths with you, but your eyes would squint and your arms would try to block off the light. You are struggling from the strains on your eye and you wonder where the lights are coming from. You’ve started to realize the jewelry the other person possessed. That girl had some ostentatious jewelry. She had on Cubic Zirconia rings, CZ bracelets, necklaces, and clip on earrings. Jewelry can be so spectacular at times. The fashion of jewelry is stupendous.
The dim beams from the street lights are reflecting off of the immaculate jewelry. The reflection is so strong that it can make the other person strain their eyes. Jewelry can illustrate the refinement in a person. It shows someone personality; their individuality, their inner-self and independence. CZ rings can be very flashy when the female moves her hand around. Glimmering lights will shine in any alleyway by the reflection of her jewelry. The jewelry fashion is so important in modern days.
Fashion outfit is important when going out but fashion jewelry is just as important. The will sort out you from the rest of the people. Jewelry does not always have to be too expensive. For example Cubic Zirconia can get the job done. They will be able to shimmer lights and at the same time show off your fashion statement. Clip on earrings are not as good as earrings when it comes to showing off your fashion statement because it has a potential to fall off and that would be embarrassing. 
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Alleyway, Beams, Clip On Earrings, Cubic Zirconia Rings, Cz Rings, Fashion Jewelry, Fashion Outfit, Fashion Statement, Flashing, Individuality, Jewelry Fashion, Job, Necklaces, Personality, Refinement, Reflection, Shimmer Lights, Squint, Strains · No Comments »
Welding has been used in thousands of manufacturing activities and is the most common means of permanently joining metal parts. Welders construct or repair metal products by sealing parts using different welding methods.
How Welding Works:
• Craig House, a First Class boilermaker welder and workshop manager, says that among the various welding methods used, manual metal arc welding or stick welding as it’s known in the industry is a commonly used method.
• Arc welding involves two large metal alligator clips carrying a strong electrical current. One clip is attached to any part of the work piece metal part being welded while the second clip is attached to a thin welding rod. When the rod touches the metal part, a powerful electrical circuit is created.
Turn Up The Heat:
• The intense heat created by the electrical current causes the metal part and steel core of the rod to melt together.
• This cools quickly and results in a solid bond. During welding, the flux (welding wire) that surrounds the rod’s core vaporises, forming a gas that serves to protect the weld from atmospheric elements that might weaken it.
Craig House unravels the process:
• Pressure vessels are round cyclinders which are to be welded longitudinally. The vessel will already have been tack welded by a boilermaker and after it is set up on rollers, run-off tabs are put on.
• These enable welders to continue welding past the end of the joint. It gets welded from the inside first, rotated and then welded from the outside.’
• Welders also join beams used in the constructing of buildings and bridges, and join pipes in pipelines, power plants and refineries.
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Alligator, Alligator Clips, Arc Welding, Beams, Buildings And Bridges, Electrical Circuit, First Class, Intense Heat, Manual Metal Arc, Pipelines, Pipes, Power Plants, Pressure Vessels, Refineries, Rollers, Steel Core, turn up the heat for mig welding, types of weldings, Welder, WELDING METHODS, Welding Rod, Welding Wire, Workshop Manager · No Comments »
A
typical fillet welded joint is illustrated. It connects two components, one of which is conveniently regarded as the loaded member – as all loads on it are known – the other is the support or reaction member. Clearly the loads are transmitted through the joint before being absorbed in the support.
A run may be three -dimensional however the majority of practical runs are two -dimensional and lie in a weld plane like the cantilever’s joint here. We consider only such two -dimensional runs, the centroids of which must also lie in the weld plane. It is convenient to erect a Cartesian system at the centroid G, and to designate the x-y plane as the weld plane as shown at ( a) below.
In general the resultant load on the joint is a force F = [ Fx Fy Fz ]‘ through the centroid of the linear run, together with a moment M = [ Mx My Mz ]‘ whose components are given by the RH Rule, ( b). For the cantilever above, this resultant would be found by moving the sole force to act through the centroid, and introducing the moment corresponding to the force multiplied by the distance transverse to the force’s line of action between the point of load application and the centroid.
This load is equilibrated by a force distributed along the length L of the run as indicated in ( c). By virtue of the stresses in the weld, each element of run δL contributes an elemental force q.δL towards equilibrium. q is a force intensity ; it is a vector force -per -unit -length and except in simple cases varies in magnitude and direction around the run.
Conceptually, force intensity is not too different from stress, which is a force -per -unit -area, that is δF = q δL = σ δA. Force intensity is also similar to the bending moment in a beam: both are stress resultants – of stresses in the weld throat and in the beam’s cross-section respectively – and both vary in general along a linear path – the weld run and the beam axis.
For the majority of beams the bending moment is easily found in terms of the loads using statics. In the case of a fillet weld however, correlating the intensity q with the load F, M is less straightforward since the arrangement is statically indeterminate.
Two techniques for this correlation (having the same theoretical foundation) are presented below. The first traditional approach is based on recasting the building block stress equations for bending etc. in terms of force intensity rather than of stress. This approach though simple has limitations which in some situations requires the more general second technique, the unified approach.
Source: http://www.mech.uwa.edu.au/DANotes/welds/fillets/fillets.html
Posted in Uncategorized · Tags: Beam Axis, Beams, Bending Moment In A Beam, Cantilever, Cartesian System, Centroid, Centroids, Cross Section, Elemental Force, Equilibrium, fillet welding tig, Force Per Unit Area, Intensity, Linear Path, Load Application, Mz, S Line, Sole Force, Stresses, Vector Force, Virtue · No Comments »
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